A Season of Colors, Flavors and Sensations

After the summer heat subsides, the Sierra Nevada mountains invite visitors to enjoy comfortable walks through vast, multicolored landscapes, discover local traditions by participating in artisanal activities in its tiny villages, and savor seasonal dishes. Autumn has arrived in the Sierra Nevada and for many it’s the best season of the year.

Many visit Granada and the Sierra Nevada with the belief that its slopes are completely devoid of forests—a misconception often led by visions of dry, sun-drenched Andalusian terrain. What a surprise when one discovers the extensive oak groves at high altitudes (in the Almerian part of Sierra Nevada), large green areas covered by pine forests (Marquesado del Zenete), and mixed forestland where Mediterranean and Atlantic tree species blend, creating a multicolored landscape in autumn.

The autumn colors can be seen in some of these mixed forests, which are a jewel of the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Park and a special treat for the senses. A perfect place to visit this season is the Dehesa del Camarate on the northern slope of the Sierra Nevada. Lugros is a small, mountain village that serves as an access point to this “enchanted forest.” It’s a very popular area during the peak of autumn so the local council has set up a reservation system limiting the number of daily entries.

However, if you prefer a more solitary experience, you can hire a local ecotourism guide, from SierraySol for instance, who will take you to the forest via a more panoramic route – one that also offers views of 3,000-meter-high snow-covered peaks. This guided day trip concludes with a forest bath around nightfall.

But Dehesa del Camarate isn’t the only beautiful hiking route in the fall. Another recommendation is the popular Vereda de la Estrella, which follows an incredible path along a shady slope, parallel to the Genil River in Güéjar Sierra. Once again, you can transcend the route on your own with family and friends from its starting point at the end of the very narrow Charcón road or choose to be accompanied by a local guide. The full classic itinerary totals 22 kilometers, although you can turn back whenever you like.

The valley also offers numerous smaller trails that deviate from the official path, including some that cross the river, allowing for circular routes through the forest. Those looking for a longer autumn experience in the Sierra Nevada mountains can embark on a two-day trekking route which includes sleeping in humble mountain shelters – stone cabins where you can stay overnight with your sleeping bag.

THE ACEQUIAS OF SIERRA NEVADA: A UNIQUE PART OF THE LOCAL HERITAGE

The acequias of Sierra Nevada are ancient irrigation ditches that run along the mountains for hundreds of kilometers and are a unique cultural heritage site. These water channels have narrow paths parallel to them, which are usually shaded by chestnut or other trees that fully display beautiful autumn colors.

These traditional acequias can be found throughout all of the valleys. In the Alpujarra of Granada, the acequias of the Poqueira valley are famous and accessible from its three sister villages (Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira). The acequias in the Lanjarón valley are well-marked and accessible from the towns of Aceituno, Secarta and Montalbán. There are also lesser-known acequias that can be found in more remote villages, such as Mecina Bombarón and Bérchules. A bit further from Granada, in the Alpujarra of Almería, the acequias of the Laujar de Andarax and Paterna del Río valleys are great options for those seeking a more solitary experience exploring off the beaten paths.

Walking alongside the sound of water, under glorious chestnut branches that filter the light and create yellow, ochre and red reflections, can be both therapeutic and enchanting. It is well worth staying a few days longer, with a base in any of the villages with cozy family accommodations. Consider staying at Hotel Finca Los Llanos in Capileira, Hotel Alcadima in Lanjarón, the Rural Hotel in Mecina Fondales, or Hotel Almirez at the edge of the mountains in the province of Almería.

AUTUMN WITH THE FAMILY: DELIGHTFUL ACTIVITIES FOR ALL AGES

Could a wine tasting be considered a family activity? The answer is a resounding yes – especially when the tasting is combined with other local delights and other unique activities. Ecobodega Cortijo del Cura in Laujar de Andarax makes some of the best wine in the valley, but its owners offer much more than a classic wine-tasting visit. Their farmhouse displays traditional domestic and ethnographic objects, creating a genuine eco-museum that helps visitors understand what local rural life was like in the past. A walk through the chemical-free orchard and vineyard with the founders of this cortijo will reveal the secrets of organic farming.

Here, children can safely explore the countryside, far away from busy roads, and pick and taste up to 52 varieties of table grapes. The family has carefully preserved these grape species over time, creating a true genetic bank of vine varieties from different eras. There’s nothing like picking clusters of grapes of different colors and sizes, and tasting them to discover the variety of flavors.

Similarly, a meal at the Ruta del Mulhacén restaurant in Pampaneira is much more than just a meal. Here, lunch becomes a delightful discovery of local, seasonal products and traditional recipes and ingredients – all while enjoying spectacular views of the terraced landscape and mountain peaks. Angelines, the restaurant owner, is always happy to reveal the secrets of her fusion cuisine, which blends Muslim and Christian traditions, as the dishes are being served.

Children of all ages can enjoy weaving an artisanal tapestry, known as a jarapa, with their hands under the guidance of Ana from Hilacar, another host eager to share local knowledge and traditions. Ana has revived ancient looms, and today her workshop produces multicolored textiles that can warm beds, decorate walls, separate spaces, and add warmth and color to any floor. This fun and educational activity explores the art of weaving and decorative tapestries, and children can take home a beautiful keepsake they made by themselves!

CELEBRATING ABUNDANCE

This time of year, chestnut festivals are very common throughout the Sierra. These events bring together villagers and visitors, who make bonfires for roasting the chestnuts, usually after a long walk gathering the fruit. The freedom to run around and play with local children to the sound of chestnuts crackling in the open fire is undoubtedly an unforgettable experience for little ones. These events are often accompanied by music, wine and typical local dishes, with autumn mushrooms often a key ingredient.

Andalusia’s Sierra Nevada is a natural wonder with endless abundance, especially in autumn. Bread workshops, olive oil tastings, family hiking routes, artistic workshops using elements from the forest, birdwatching, nature photography, forest bathing and multi-adventure activities are all available for the whole family to partake in and explore. These activities not only allow us to connect with nature but are also fun and educational experiences we will not soon forget.