And whether you believe in sorcery or not, autumn is the perfect time to experience its charm for yourself. So why not make your way up the mountain around Halloween for an extra dose of mischief and mystery?
A VILLAGE WITH A BEWITCHING PAST
In 2023, National Geographic listed Soportújar as one of Spain’s most unusual villages – and rightfully so! The story begins in the early 1500s, when Catholic armies expelled the Moors from the city of Granada. Escaping over rugged peaks, Moorish families ensconced themselves on the other side of the mountain range and, using ancestral knowledge, built the crooked and cool whitewashed villages that make up the region of La Alpujarra today.
Soportújar and neighboring towns became a stronghold of Christian resistance until the Rebellion of La Alpujarra in the second half of the 16th century, when King Felipe II forced the Moors to either convert to Catholicism or else be expelled from the land. Many Moors fled once again, leaving most of the new villages empty, and the King called for Christians from other parts of the country to repopulate. Those arriving from the north, namely Galicia, brought with them their Celtic roots and pagan traditions. Legend claims that that’s when the first witches and wizards arrived.
People from nearby Cañar and Carataunas began to witness strange things and avoided entering Soportújar. The village’s newcomers carried out their so-called witchcraft secretly, during rituals on dark nights so as not to attract attention from their neighbors, let alone the Inquisition. Mysterious chants could be heard on full moon nights and witches were seen flying over the area. Rumors of necromancy spread like wildfire.
Now, none of this can be confirmed today, yet historical documents show several reports of witchcraft, which led the church to investigate and interrogate many local women for heresy. Over time, Soportújar locals became known as brujas y brujos, witches and wizards.
A 21ST-CENTURY PHENOMENON
The descendants of those witches still live there today. Nevertheless, the population of Soportújar, like many of the nearby villages, has been declining over the last century as young people leave their hometowns in search of work in the cities.
To ensure a livelihood for the remaining 300 souls, Proyecto Embrujo, the Bewitching Project, was launched some 20 years ago to make the most of Soportújar’s reputation and grow its tourist appeal. And so today, the village has become a hub of all things wondrous and witchy.
As you enter the village, you’re greeted by a toothless Baba Yaga, the Slavic supernatural being who tends to lend a hand but has also been known to gobble up children. Meander towards the town center to El Mirador del Embrujo, a bewitching viewpoint with spectacular vistas of the mountains and valley. Admire the nearby church, built in the 16th century on top of a mosque – a common practice in the area after the Reconquest. You may even stumble upon the ancient remains of where the Moors processed their minerals.
Like all haunted villages, Soportújar has surprises around every corner. There’s a witches’ cave and a dragon fountain, from which the water is said to have aphrodisiac properties. The wishing well brings superstitious bad luck, so steer clear! Thankfully, a giant snake and spider keep vicious spirits at bay. On a sweeter note, rumor has it that Hansel and Gretel’s colorful abode may soon house a local chocolate shop. It’s also worth the short hike to what’s known as the Coven, the threshing circle or Era de los Aquelarres, from where you can see Africa (and more) on a clear day.
The best way to explore Soportújar is to allow yourself to get lost in its narrow, winding alleyways and notice all the obvious (and less obvious) details. Perhaps you’ll see that the house numbers are adorned with witches on broomsticks and the streetlights with black cats. References to a lingering spooky past abound and it doesn’t matter if you believe them or not. Soportújar is undeniably unusual and well-worth the visit.
A DAY-TRIP ADVENTURE TO LA ALPUJARRA
Soportújar belongs to La Alpujarra Granadina, an area of outstanding beauty that lies on the other side of the mountain, just over an hour’s drive from Granada. This part of the National Park is a wonderful place to visit in autumn, with the trees changing color and the abundance of nuts and fruits that grow there, including blackberries, figs, grapes, quince, almonds and chestnuts.
To get there, head to Orgiva then turn up the A-4132 towards Bubion. After about ten minutes you’ll spot the village up on your left, which from a distance resembles any other typical pueblo blanco, or white village nestled into the mountain.
The adventure begins at the elaborate sign at the bottom of the road. You may be tempted to join the cars and buses parked all around, but test your luck at finding a parking spot closer to the town. Enterprising locals have converted their land into paying parking spaces, and if they’re all full, rest assured – there are plenty of magical fountains and local bars to quench your thirst after you finally hike your way up. It will all have been worth it.
Stay Longer Guide Tip
Go higher than Soportújar’s 920 meters up to O Sel Ling, the Buddhist retreat center above the witches’ village – a two-hour hike that will confirm the region’s mystical essence.
